-This time we will be presenting a conversation between J.PRESS & SON'S AOYAMA buyer Kurono and KURO DENIM director Yatsuhashi. -
[Buyer Kurono: Hereafter, Kurono]
I recently had the pleasure of working with KURO to create ``CENTER PLEATS DENIM TROUSERS.''
This is the second season following the 21st SS . thank you. Could you please briefly introduce yourself?
[KURO DENIM Director Yatsuhashi: Hereafter Mr. Yatsuhashi]
My name is Yatsuhashi and I am the director and designer of KURO DENIM.
KURO DENIM is a unisex denim brand that started in 2010 with the opening of PITTI UOMO. As a store, we have 20 accounts overseas and 50 to 60 accounts domestically.
[Kurono] That's why we called in a denim professional.
By the way, I'm not that good at vintage denim, but I've learned a lot from Mr. Yatsuhashi.
I really like denim. I think I always talk about how much I like blue chambray shirts...
I find myself buying second-hand clothes because I like the faded colors and silhouette.
I think this is the item that most stimulates the senses when shopping.
Just one week ago, I went with Mr. Yatsuhashi to Fukuyama in Hiroshima Prefecture and Kojima in Okayama.
The main reason for this business trip was that I really wanted to feel the atmosphere in which things are being created, so I was very grateful for your help.
I really learned a lot by having the weaver show me how he weaves selvedge denim on an old loom and how it is actually processed.
[Kurono] When I was on a business trip, I heard that you've been to Okayama about 100 times. Is that true?
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] That's right. Maybe over 100 times. I mainly go there to communicate with the craftsmen on site. I believe that the most important thing to do in order to turn your ideas into reality is to talk and communicate with the craftsmen.
[Kurono] I see. As expected, I felt a sense of intimacy from the conversations between Mr. Yatsuhashi and the factory staff. These days, I really feel that communication is important when it comes to making good things.
[Kurono] I would like to start by talking a little bit about this collaboration item. Mr. Yatsuhashi, you made something good, right? lol
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] That's right. I think we came up with something really good.
[Kurono] This time we will introduce denim slacks. However, these are no ordinary denim slacks. First of all, I would like to introduce a little about why I decided to make it.
I've always wanted denim that would look cool even when tucked in with a shirt. Moreover, they are denim slacks.
Of course, this is not the dress approach of denim slacks that is common with Italian brands, but rather an American casual approach. But there were no such denim slacks.
It may not even be historical in the first place...
I also like the way the 501 looks with the navy blue shirt tucked in and the color fading , but when you look at it calmly, it just looks lame. First of all, the rise is too shallow and too thin. (lol)
It doesn't suit me 100% with the length and thickness of my legs, but I don't dislike it, so I used to wear it often. (lol)
[Kurono] I talked to Mr. Yatsuhashi about this and asked him to do this project. Do you understand what I mean? ( lol )
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] I have known Mr. Kurono for a long time, so I understand what he means. (Laughs) However, the factory that sews regular denim and the factory that sews slacks are completely different. The factory that normally sews slacks does not sew denim. In that sense, there are almost no denim factories that allow you to attach Marbert. It's like we asked a very limited number of factories and they managed to do it for us.
[Kurono] By the way, even if KURO made the slacks, wasn't it planned with this type of washing in mind? ( lol )
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] Almost none. (Laughs) I've done it in the past, but it was something that looked like chinos and slacks. Although it came with a Marvel belt, it had 5 pockets. That's why the specifications of this full-fledged slacks are fundamentally different.
[Kurono] Yes, the key point this time is that although it is a pair of slacks, I wanted to maintain the general 5-pocket denim feel. In creating these elements, let's start with the materials. Could you please explain a little about the material?
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] The factory is located in Ibara City, Okayama Prefecture, a textile town and a purveyor of Maison brands. We use selvedge denim woven on an old shuttle loom. The material has a sweet weave with fewer warp threads, giving it a nice look after washing.
[Kurono] If you were to compare it to vintage, how would it feel?
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] It might be difficult to make a vintage analogy. It is a well-balanced fabric with a sweet weave and an unusual texture.
[Kurono] I believe that selvedge denim woven on a shuttle loom is what is called red-selved denim, but could you tell me how it differs from denim that is normally woven?
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] The weft threads are not blown away by air, but rather slippery. Since it is an old loom, we weave it slowly while letting air in to create a vintage-like finish. The air that I mentioned earlier is digital, so it gives a sense of speed, tension, and an efficient finish. That's not the case this time, and I think I'm using an analog loom to take my time and focus on the texture. This feeling is expressed as "slimy." (lol)
[Kurono] I see! I understand that. (lol)
[Kurono] Next, I would like to ask you a little bit about processing. What kind of processing do you use for each type of processing?
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] The base is a so-called stone wash, in which many products are washed in a large pot. Each piece around the crease is hand-processed by a craftsman. This is quite difficult and time-consuming work, so I think you'll understand better when you try it out.
[Kurono] I also like how the color fades around the hem. I think the way this hit is brought out is really tasteful. By the way, I would like to dig a little deeper into the details.
First of all, I've incorporated the details of the slacks, but I'll briefly introduce them.
・The side pockets are made with J.PRESS slacks specifications, and are slightly curved to make it easier to put your hands and things in, while also showing off your silhouette.
・It was difficult to find a special denim product that could not be manufactured using normal denim factories. Thanks to you, it turned out beautifully. It also has suspender buttons.
- The front tuck button and the marbelt are made in different factories, so it takes time and effort to change the factory depending on the location.
-The belt loops have no bar tacks and are tucked in for a clean look. This is the specification for slacks.
・Each crease is inserted by hand. It is the handiwork of a craftsman.
[Kurono] What was difficult about the selvedge placket ( details from what vintage vintage ) ?
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] The paper patch on the back belt was inspired by the Euromilitary style of the 50s and 60s. Vintage details really add to the atmosphere.
[Kurono] The selvedge on the back of the side seam is also rare, isn't it?
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] It was especially difficult to make the front part. The first sample ended up looking a little squishy and didn't sit well, so I had to remake it several times to get it to work.
[Kurono] The dye transfer is also great.
[Kurono] Regarding the silhouette, since it is a slacks, the rise is set deeper than normal bottoms. It has a straight silhouette with just the right amount of thickness. There's something different about being too thick, and there's something different about being too thin. We were particularly particular about the thickness, as we wanted to find a way to not make it look old-fashioned and give it a sense of the times.
The waist is designed to make you want to tuck it in, but of course, at times like these, sweaters and sweatshirts will be worn as tops, so I think it's fine to wear them around your waist.
In the first place, pairing gray slacks with tight center pleats with something casual like a hooded sweatshirt or varsity shirt really brings out the J.PRESS American style, and it's a silhouette I like. ...Since it's denim, it's a bit more casual, but I thought it would be nice if someone could style it with that mindset in mind.
how is it? Mr. Yatsuhashi
[Mr. Yatsuhashi] I think it's really good. You can also wear them loosely.
[Kurono] I think you can see from the above that we put a lot of effort into our work. The denim slacks are an embodiment of the American casual approach that was originally proposed.
Well, I made the request myself... but I'm such a maniac.
First of all, I don't think it's necessary or possible to make pants like this unless you're a traditional brand. Without a doubt, without a denim brand like KURO , we would not have been able to offer products of this level of perfection with a traditional mindset.
However, I don't know if people will understand it right away, but as a creator, I would be happy if people gradually realized the necessity of it and the perspective that the world doesn't have.
Style no. PPJUIZ0700
Model name. CENTER PLEATS DENIM TROUSERS (INDIGO)
Price. ¥25,300 (tax in)
Size.S, M, L
Style no. PPJUIZ0701
Model name. CENTER PLEATS DENIM TROUSERS (FADED INDIGO)
Price. ¥30,800 (taxi n)
Size.S, M, L
J.PRESS & SON'S AOYAMA
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