This is Kurono, the buyer!
This time we are introducing the second jacket series in collaboration between knit brand COOHEM and J.PRESS! ! !
Fortunately, in addition to the knit blazer that was sold out immediately at J.PRESS & SONS' last time, we also have a new knit jacket with a tweed pattern.
This item will be on sale at the same time at YONETOMI STORE, which opened at Yonetomi Textile Headquarters, and J.PRESS & SON'S AOYAMA! please!
-From now on, I would like to introduce a conversation with Ken Oe, CEO of Yonetomi Textile and director of COOHEM. -
J.PRESS＆SON'S BUYER/Kurono (hereinafter referred to as Kurono)
Thank you very much, Mr. Oe.
Congratulations on opening YONETOMISTORE! It's a good shop.
Yonetomi Seni President and CEO/COOHEM Director Mr. Oe (hereinafter referred to as Mr. Oe)
thank you. YONETOMISTORE opened on August 27, 2022 inside Yonetomi Textile located in Yamanobe Town, Yamagata Prefecture. This is a new concept store opened within the Knit Factory by Yonetomi Seni, which has been in business for 75 years. The shop is comprised of two floors: MEN'S and WOMEN'S, and the 1st and 2nd floors, with a total area of approximately 50 tsubo. In addition to our own products COOHEM, YONETOMI, and THIS IS SWEATER, we also have purchased and purchased products, and we have a wide variety of products that can be coordinated with our own products.
thank you. It's a wonderful shop again. There is one part of the store that caught my attention the most, and there are large words with interesting words placed in the stairwell that connects the 1st and 2nd floors. There is a saying that ``Fashion is life.'' This is?
yes. This is the published autobiography of my grandfather, Ryoichi Oe, who was also the founder of Yonetomi Textile. The title of the book is ``Fashion is Life.'' This title is the concept of the shop.
The words are quite impactful and have a lot of depth. It looks like it would be a good photo spot as well. thank you.
Now, I would like to start explaining the collaboration items this time. It all started when I saw a sample of an inline blazer at a COOHEM exhibition. Adding the essence of J.PRESS to this, the navy blazer is made from knit and is a cardigan-like jacket with a more relaxed feel than anything you've ever experienced before.
This time, Mr. Oe asked if we would like to work together again. I received an offer. Could you please tell me the reason?
We collaborated with J.PRESS by reviewing the size and details based on the items that were originally developed when we collaborated on 21SS. This product received a very good response in POP-UP situations and was very well received by customers. When launching this shop, I wanted to sell traditional blazers, so with the background of the sizing of the knit blazer we collaborated with last time and the collaboration with J. It was a blazer. We are pleased to offer this service again as we are able to propose styling centered around blazers that are not influenced by trends at our shop.
thank you. I'm really grateful for this story! From here, I will explain the knit blazer. So, without further ado, would you mind if we could also talk about threads and materials?
yes. This is knitted with two types of polyester threads of different thickness, and is knitted with a texture that looks like tweed. I ended up making tweed out of polyester. We create 9 parts of knitted fabric in the optimal size for the body, sleeves, pockets, collar, etc. The total time it takes for one machine to knit one garment is 360 minutes. I had no idea it would take that long. And here's the key point: As a finishing touch, each piece of knitted fabric is subjected to a high-pressure heat press at 180℃. Originally, it was a special machine that applied the interlining, but the process was devised to take advantage of polyester's thermoplastic properties. It actually takes one minute to press one part under high pressure, so it takes about 10 minutes of concentrated time to create one garment. However, by performing this process, you can create a blazer fabric that has a firmness and luster that you wouldn't expect from a knit, and is also stretchy and comfortable. The expression has a traditional hopsack-like atmosphere, and it has a classical feel, but it's very fresh.
I see! I actually saw the manufacturing process at the factory and realized how time-consuming and labor-intensive it is to press each piece one by one. It was very interesting. Next, could you tell me more about cutting and sewing?
The process is almost the same as the fabric sewing process, but automatic cutting machines are usually used in fabric factories. However, since this is a knitting factory, all the pieces are cut by hand. When sewing, the outside of the part is sewn once using a sewing machine, and then cut using scissors. Although these processes are invisible to the naked eye, they eliminate fraying and slipping, resulting in a better product. Furthermore, this is a production method in which one skilled craftsman undertakes the entire process. It's a production method that is almost custom-made. I think our strength is that we specialize in tailored jackets among knit factories like ours.
I see, i see! As expected. I think it's rare to find a knit jacket that is made into a full-fledged jacket. Let me explain a little more about the details. First, the center vent is a hook vent. This is also faithfully made along the lines of J.PRESS's existing blazers.
The length is 2cm longer than the COOHEM inline one. The hook vent width has also been increased by 2cm.
The chest pocket is a patch pocket, and a molle patch is included as a badge. The sleeve buttons are removed and the sleeves are designed to be rolled up easily and can be worn like a cardigan.
The sleeves are tube-sleeved and have high elasticity, so you can wear them comfortably even if you layer a relatively low-gauge knit layer as an inner layer. You can match it with thick knit innerwear, so you can expand your coordination options.
There are also features on the back. Most of J.PRESS's existing blazers and jackets have red piping tape on the back side facings. This is also applied to knit blazers.
Due to the structure of the knit, it is difficult to apply regular piping, so we created J.PRESS's red piping by using red anti-stretch tape and lock sewing machine thread. It also becomes the brand's icon, so I wanted to take care of it.
This commitment! I was impressed! thank you very much.
Next is the gold button, which is engraved with "IPE". This is taken from the initials of J.PRESS 2nd generation Irvin E. Press, and is a reproduction of the archive of buttons actually used in the USA. It was not used in Japan, so it is limited to J.PRESS & SON'S. Unlike the Waterburry button, which is made of brass and is used in existing blazers, it oxidizes when exposed to the air, giving it a dull shine, making it a button that grows with your clothes.
Also, this time we added a tweed pattern as a new pattern. There are two designs, and at first we were planning to release them individually, but since we had such a great opportunity, we decided to release them together at the same time so everyone could see as much as possible.
Personally, I think the color scheme and pattern are fresh and have the best of both worlds, which is very nice. Mr. Oe, could you please introduce us to this tweed pattern?
Since this is our second collaboration, we have also prepared a pattern different from the navy that was popular from last time, and we have made a new proposal while maintaining the same comfort. We have prepared a variety of variations that will keep both those who purchased it last time and those who are seeing it for the first time this time. At Tweed, the basic gun club check has colorful colors in between and a small netting to prevent the pattern from becoming too large. The typical fall/winter tweed is also made of polyester knit, giving it a unique look and making it one of a kind. Furthermore, by using leather buttons, you can enjoy the contrast with the material of the body.
Authentic tweed has its good points, but there were also parts where it was heavy and stiff and not very comfortable to wear, but with this one, you don't have that problem.
I personally wanted to wear a T-shirt or crew knit with the inner layer of a tweed jacket, but I avoided it because it made my neck feel prickly. However, with this one, you can enjoy that kind of styling.
At the beginning, you talked about the materials and sewing, but why does it take so long to make it? This may be a bit of a misnomer, but it's because it's a "knitting factory." I felt that it was the pride of the COOHEM brand and the fact that Yonetomi Textile was doing something that no one would have imagined would be possible to make a full-fledged blazer out of knit. I believe that because we are a company that constantly takes on the challenge of creating new products, we were able to exceed limits through time and effort and create a product. My honest impression is that it exceeds the limits of knitwear. I don't think products like this will ever come out in the world. I would like this blazer to be worn even if you are not a fan of American traditional fashion, and I would also recommend this blazer to those who love American traditional fashion and are looking for a second or later item. Please try it.
I think it would be best to fold this knit blazer and store it like other knit items. Please do not stack them too much and store them folded. Also, since it is a knit product, please be careful not to get it caught. We hope that you will be able to use it for a long time. The newly opened YONETOMISTORE is also accepting factory tours, so if you are interested, please make a reservation from the website.
Thank you very much for your valuable time.
thank you very much.
1136 Yamabe, Yamabe-machi, Higashimurayama-gun, Yamagata Prefecture
(Yonetomi Textile Head Office/Factory Building)
Business hours: 12:00-19:00 Closed: Every Monday, Tuesday, 1st and 3rd Sunday of the month Telephone: 023-664-8165
J.PRESS & SON'S AOYAMA
Address：1F, Office Aoyama, 3-10-2Kita-Aoyama, Minato-Ku, Tokyo, Japan Google Map
Monday closed (open if Monday is a holiday)