Ventile is a fabric developed in England during World War II (around 1940 ) as a military uniform for pilots. At that time, it was said that when a fighter jet fell into the sea, it was difficult for the pilot to survive before being spotted from above. This is because the sea water is cold and can seep into military uniforms. Therefore, a highly woven, water-repellent Ventile fabric was developed and used in military uniforms, which is said to have shortened the lifespan of pilots at sea from 5 to 20 minutes. It is a material that has a history as a military.
J.PRESS makes original VENTILE. We are asking Daiwabo, the Japanese distributor of British Ventile, to manufacture it. One of Daiwabo's factories is the Izumo factory. Because this area has a history of supplying fabric to the Japanese military during the war, it is able to produce high-density fabrics like Ventile. High density increases durability and water repellency. This yarn, which is used exclusively at J.PRESS , has a count of 70/2 , which aims for a moderate texture and elegance. In addition, we are particular about the texture, and we have applied special processing to it. As you can tell by touching it, you may have the impression that Ventile is hard, but this custom-made fabric has an elegant, glossy, and soft texture.
This design is also available in tweed type. The feature of this material is the classic pattern of Estede check, but I think it feels fresh. The orange pen gives it a fresh look, and the material is a clear tweed fabric that you would want to wear right now.It has a clear surface with little fluff and a firm finish to prevent it from getting too warm. did.
As for the design details, if you look into the archives, you will find that both J.PRESS 's Balmakaan and trench were made in the raincoat category. Among them, Burberry was handled in the old days. I copied that and started making my own, so naturally I inherited the details from Burberry. For example, the shape and size of the collar (small and straight), one sleeve, A- line silhouette towards the hem, fly buttons, through pockets ( magazine pockets ), flutter, etc.
In the first place, single-piece sleeves mean that they are not set-in or have two sleeves, so each piece of cloth falls off neatly. On the other hand, two sleeves have the advantage that the hollow parts with the corners fit perfectly when wearing a jacket with shoulder pads. However, single sleeves also have disadvantages. Since there is a lot of movement and a lot of fabric is used, wrinkles occur in a radial pattern when the sleeves are lowered. If it's second-hand clothing, it's soft and doesn't bother me much, but if it's new, this is where the pattern maker shows off his skills, and he seems to be conscious of making it look nice. I think our coat fits that point very well.
This time's Balmakaan has the base liner removed to make it easier to wear. Furthermore, the pockets are unbuttoned, and the sleeves are made with only one sleeve, making the overall silhouette larger and more modern. The point is that the current mood in the Japanese market is the oversized, relaxed silhouette that has been going on lately. First of all, I think this coat fits perfectly into the spirit of the times. The slightly smaller collar and gentle A- line retain classic details, but I think the balance is also very modern. At J.PRESS&SON'S AOYAMA , we mainly offer casual clothing, so this one -sleeved coat goes with everything. However, this exclusive Ventile is a little more elegant, and I feel that this mismatch, which is not found in vintage Burberry, is also very nice. In fact, when I go to the store, I often hear that people are looking for balmakaan but they can't find anything good. I think this J.PRESS coat, which carries a bit of culture on its shoulders, will support customers in times like these.
The duffel coat and P coat are made from a blend of strong wool, a material known from Nikke's Cuba Beach, which has tension and resilience. The appropriate amount of tension, which is men's-like, makes the product stand out in tailoring and appears in the silhouette. At J.PRESS , this is the thread we use as a standard for suits. The organization is called Triple Pile. It's triple, meaning there are three layers: front, tether, and back. It looks stiff, but when you wear it, it feels light. This stiff appearance is due to the thickness of the fabric. However, there is a connection inside, so to put it simply, there is a hollow space between the front and back. In other words, it is light compared to the thickness of the fabric. This material is made in Bishu by a person called a craftsman and only one loom is available, making it extremely rare. The front side of the fabric is brushed, the back side is also brushed, and finally the raised part of the fabric is cut with a pile cut in a herringbone pattern to create a subtle pattern. The problem here is that this strong wool is difficult to brush, making it difficult to cut the pile and taking a long time, so it seems that it started when he went out and had someone do things that he wouldn't normally do. This is a material developed by J.PRESS .
The basic details of the duffel design are retained. As expected, the key points are the oversized and loose silhouette, and the thick sleeves for a casual look, which I feel is the duffle I want to wear right now. What I want to wear now is something casual. This refers to the loose-fitting hood, thick dropped sleeves that are not set in, and the loose width of the body. In the first place, I feel that duffel coats can often look a bit student-like depending on the silhouette. Therefore, I feel that a silhouette that has a certain amount of flair can be approached more fashionably. Also, in addition to the basic navy, I think the yellow color is refreshing.
The design of the pea coat is partially inspired by the details of the 1910 's US Navy. For example, the details include 10 buttons and 4 pockets including hand warm pockets. The silhouette is an oversized silhouette with room for the width of the body, just like a duffel. Also, as I was hanging it up on a hanger and taking pictures, I realized that J.PRESS coats are beautiful. It's the feel of the collar that gives you a tailor's feel, the way the sleeves swing, and I think it would be easier to work if the sleeves were touched this far forward. The gold buttons give it a dressy look and feel like a fresh detail. We also highly recommend styling it with the button closed all the way to the top and the collar turned up.
I think the items I introduced this time are expensive and not cheap, but I think they are important items to wear as the first thing to impress when you meet someone. I feel that J.PRESS coats are car-like items that you will never get tired of in terms of material, design, and detail, and on the contrary, you will want to use them for many years.
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